Next i spent some time on researching birding spots. My first thought was to spend most of the week in the Western Rhodope Mountains heading for the Tigrad gorge and giving myself a couple of days there to see the Wallcreeper then heading of to the Eastern Rhodopes for the last few days. As i looked into it further i then decided to go straight to the Eastern Rhodopes and the Sakar hills area. With an idea that if i had seen most of my target birds to then visit the Tigrad gorge but further research suggested that the Wallcreeper has not been seen at the known site in the Tigrad gorge for at least the last 2 years. So the final plan is to drive from Sofia to the Eastern Rhodopes and spend 4 nights there then possibly drive up to Pomire for a visit to the salt pans for Waders then onwards to re visit Durunkuluk and Kavarna leaving a long drive back to Sofia on my last full day.
Next i used Booking.com to get some idea of the cost of hotels in the area and i ended up making a reservation for 4 nights at Hristo Cholakov Museum situated in the village of Borislavtsi. Which is less than a 10 min drive to Madzharovo. There advert suggests i have booked a room with an extra large double bed, en suite, free off road parking, free Wifi and free toilet paper. Total cost for 4 nights £38.00. I reserved a room at the Hristo partly on cost but also its location being near all of the top birding sites and the Sakar hills are only around about an hours drive away. Also there advert suggests (at least to me ) they cook up an evening meal for there guests which would be good as i could then sample Bulgarian home cooked food and not have to search out restaurants in the evening.
Well I made it to Manchester airport in good time. Its an early morning flight to Sofia so i arrived at the airport the previous evening and spent the night at the airport its not ideal but its the best way for an early morning departure by the time you arrive at a hotel at the airport its just about time to leave and start the process of getting through security which on occasions can be a lengthy wait. This time i sailed threw without a hitch and at about 6.45am we were on our way to Sofia.
Day 1.
At Sofia i picked up the hire car a Kia Picanto the same as my last visit even the same colour potentially the same car, i cast my eyes up to Mt Vitosha but its was covered in cloud and the temperature was on the cool side overcast Sky's with a cool wind. I put maps on and after a false start found my way out of Sofia and onto the motorway heading for Plovdiv. I made a stop to get some water and a sandwich then proceed to my pre arranged appointment with Baba Vanga. The well known Bulgarian seer and prophet who predicted the 9/11 Terror attacks and who would win the last World Cup. She told me i would see 20 new bird species on this trip.
Soon after my reading with Baba Vanga i made a roadside stop for a rest and spotted a good candidate for a Female Honey Buzzard, long tail, Cuckoo like head thinnish long wings, with pale hands to the upper wings.
After 3 hours of motorway style driving i have driven as far as Harmani were i see a roadside sign for Madzharovo and pull of the motorway then make a stop in Harmani for some food then onwards to Madzharovo only around about 50 miles to my final destination Borislavtsi. I made another short stop and caught a Nightingale singing from a branch out in the open, then a Great Reed Warbler started singing which had me confused as there was no reed beds around and the bird was singing from a bush. I started to climb and the road deteriorated to the worst i have ever driven on in Bulgaria pot holes after pot holes bits of roads washed away up and down Mountains this part of the journey took over 2 hours of very careful driving a few times i made stops just to check i was actually on the main road to Madzharovo and not some back road to a farm. Eventually i started to drop down into the valley were Madzharovo is located and passed a couple of likely good birding stops to visit tomorrow at the bottom of the pass a signpost informs Borislavtsi is 10 kms away, again i passed some very good looking birding areas to visit and made a short stop seeing a Black Kite sail over the top of the craggy peaks. Onwards to Borislavtsi on an equally bad road over another mountain pass and around about 8pm i arrive at my hotel which i find easily enough as Borislavtsi is only a very small village.
At the hotel no one speaks English and no one is expecting me, luckily a Bulgarian guy who speaks English arrives at the hotel who is also staying here for a few days exploring the area looking for rocks in the mountains.
He explains to the owners re my Booking.com reservation who have also taken payment for my stay and explains this to the owners who must have a Son our Daughter operating the Booking.com site who have failed to inform their parents of my upcoming stay.
They show me to the room i will be staying in for the next 4 nights. I did not expect much from this place, but the room was OK and the shower was very good. I reckoned when i booked the room that they served up a nice Bulgarian meal to there guests in a restaurant type area, this area turned out to be the local bar were the local men meet for drinks and chatting, the same ones every night some friendly to me some indifferent. I asked about getting a meal and was served the below which was OK for £2.00 and was washed down with a Kaminista at 50p a bottle.
I chatted to the Bulgarian guy who has come to the area to collect rocks. Madzharovo was once a mining Town and many different rocks can be found in the area. The owner of the hotel was a miner and has a small museum at the hotel of all the different rocks he has collected and i guess is the local expert in the area.
Day 2.
Slept OK i did keep my track suit bottoms on and a T shirt as it was not so warm during the previous evening and the bed was short of any thick blankets. I peered out the door to be greeted to thick fog, which i was not expecting if its thick fog down here in the valley whats happening weather wise higher up the mountains, only one way to find out i thought so i fired up the Kia and drove off up the mountain to be greeted to a cloudless blue sky with potentially a warm day ahead.
I made a stop at the top of the pass in between Borislavtsi and Madzharovo the terrain around is mostly trees, bushes with the odd bit of rock on show. The dawn chorus is in full swing Nightingales are calling all around me. I drive on and make another stop at a roadside pull in a bit further along the road on the descent into Madzharovo.
The terrain is a bit more open here bushes and rocks with the river meandering below. I get my first trip ticks a smart pair of Sombre Tits up close and i get great views, next up is an Eastern Subalpine Warbler but the view was brief. Followed by better views of a Cirl Bunting. Then a Tree Pipit flys up and does his song flight. I linger here for a fair while its a beautiful area of countryside and the sun is out warming me up.
I moved down the mountain and made another stop at a very craggy area to one side of the road with the river to the other side down below in the valley, their is a picnic table and chairs made up of the local stone and i linger here for quite a while walking up and down the road looking up at the craggy rock faces for birds. Griffon Vultures are perched on the crags waiting for the air to warm up and provide them some lift to be able to ride a thermal instead of wasting energy flapping their huge wings to gain altitude. This area is well visited by birders and it is not long before a couple appear, one of who has visited this area before and gens me up on where to find the Western Rock Nuthatch and Olive Tree Warblers, more birders arrive in a transit van style bus from England and info is swapped. During one of my walks i came across an Ortolan Bunting and a perched Blue Rock Thrush high up on a crag.
I head down to the flat area in the valley and take a walk around the grassland dotted with small bushes and come across my first Black Headed Bunting a superbly colourful bird, a bright yellow plumage with a black head and bluish coloured bill. Further on another trip tick in the shape of a Turtle Dove and again a superbly colourful bird. Red Backed Shrikes and Woodchat Shrikes are flitting about and Corn Buntings are calling out. With Whitethroats calling from the bushes.
The Griffon Vultures have taken to the sky and are soaring above the valley flapping there huge wings now and then to gain altitude.
I head into Madzharovo town centre and visit the local supermarket getting cold meat, bread and tomatoes then re visit the picnic area for my picnic style breakfast/lunch.
Fed and watered i drove off to visit a flat grassland area on the Madzharovo to Harmani road that goes down to the river seeing a few overhead calling Ravens and a Syrian Woodpecker.
Armed with the latest info re the Western Rock Nuthatch i headed further up this road, the Nuthatch is nesting as it did last year at the half moon shaped rock some way up the mountain road which upon arrival has a big pull in off road.
Its been on the cards for a while now and just as i pulled up into the large off road parking area it started to hammer down, a car load of birders arrived at this point jumped out and started the search for the nest site which one of them knew off, another birder approached me sat in my car sheltering from the downpour and asked if i was a birder which i replied yes but not in this weather as the rain eased off the birders pointed out the nest site to me then left me to it.
Soon after a couple of lady birders put in a appearance set up there scopes and grilled the nest site, one of them saw the bird arrive but i could not see it and with a bit of further guidance from them i located the nest site as before i was looking to far to the left. I could just about make out a small bird moving around with my binoculars but as the distance from the ground to the nest site is large. I could not really make out a definite Id. One of the lady birders had a top of the range scope which she had fitted with a special adaptor to be able to hold a camera phone and she was videoing the bird, she invited me over to watch the video and i had superb views of the Western Rock Nuthatch at his nest site which he was busily repairing, the nest is a work of art made out of mud that he has collected nearby then stuck it on to the rock face and shaped it like a funnel. The lady birders leave me to it and i keep watch on the Nuthatch but really he is just a speck in the distance viewed through binoculars.
I make my way back to the picnic site area and linger here till dusk watching the Griffon Vultures circling there roost and Black Storks that also roost here using one of the caves. A Peregrine Falcon circles the crags looking for his supper and i get better views of a Blue Rock Thrush.
At Sofia i picked up the hire car a Kia Picanto the same as my last visit even the same colour potentially the same car, i cast my eyes up to Mt Vitosha but its was covered in cloud and the temperature was on the cool side overcast Sky's with a cool wind. I put maps on and after a false start found my way out of Sofia and onto the motorway heading for Plovdiv. I made a stop to get some water and a sandwich then proceed to my pre arranged appointment with Baba Vanga. The well known Bulgarian seer and prophet who predicted the 9/11 Terror attacks and who would win the last World Cup. She told me i would see 20 new bird species on this trip.
Consulting Baba Vanga.
After 3 hours of motorway style driving i have driven as far as Harmani were i see a roadside sign for Madzharovo and pull of the motorway then make a stop in Harmani for some food then onwards to Madzharovo only around about 50 miles to my final destination Borislavtsi. I made another short stop and caught a Nightingale singing from a branch out in the open, then a Great Reed Warbler started singing which had me confused as there was no reed beds around and the bird was singing from a bush. I started to climb and the road deteriorated to the worst i have ever driven on in Bulgaria pot holes after pot holes bits of roads washed away up and down Mountains this part of the journey took over 2 hours of very careful driving a few times i made stops just to check i was actually on the main road to Madzharovo and not some back road to a farm. Eventually i started to drop down into the valley were Madzharovo is located and passed a couple of likely good birding stops to visit tomorrow at the bottom of the pass a signpost informs Borislavtsi is 10 kms away, again i passed some very good looking birding areas to visit and made a short stop seeing a Black Kite sail over the top of the craggy peaks. Onwards to Borislavtsi on an equally bad road over another mountain pass and around about 8pm i arrive at my hotel which i find easily enough as Borislavtsi is only a very small village.
At the hotel no one speaks English and no one is expecting me, luckily a Bulgarian guy who speaks English arrives at the hotel who is also staying here for a few days exploring the area looking for rocks in the mountains.
He explains to the owners re my Booking.com reservation who have also taken payment for my stay and explains this to the owners who must have a Son our Daughter operating the Booking.com site who have failed to inform their parents of my upcoming stay.
They show me to the room i will be staying in for the next 4 nights. I did not expect much from this place, but the room was OK and the shower was very good. I reckoned when i booked the room that they served up a nice Bulgarian meal to there guests in a restaurant type area, this area turned out to be the local bar were the local men meet for drinks and chatting, the same ones every night some friendly to me some indifferent. I asked about getting a meal and was served the below which was OK for £2.00 and was washed down with a Kaminista at 50p a bottle.
I chatted to the Bulgarian guy who has come to the area to collect rocks. Madzharovo was once a mining Town and many different rocks can be found in the area. The owner of the hotel was a miner and has a small museum at the hotel of all the different rocks he has collected and i guess is the local expert in the area.
Day 2.
Slept OK i did keep my track suit bottoms on and a T shirt as it was not so warm during the previous evening and the bed was short of any thick blankets. I peered out the door to be greeted to thick fog, which i was not expecting if its thick fog down here in the valley whats happening weather wise higher up the mountains, only one way to find out i thought so i fired up the Kia and drove off up the mountain to be greeted to a cloudless blue sky with potentially a warm day ahead.
I made a stop at the top of the pass in between Borislavtsi and Madzharovo the terrain around is mostly trees, bushes with the odd bit of rock on show. The dawn chorus is in full swing Nightingales are calling all around me. I drive on and make another stop at a roadside pull in a bit further along the road on the descent into Madzharovo.
The terrain is a bit more open here bushes and rocks with the river meandering below. I get my first trip ticks a smart pair of Sombre Tits up close and i get great views, next up is an Eastern Subalpine Warbler but the view was brief. Followed by better views of a Cirl Bunting. Then a Tree Pipit flys up and does his song flight. I linger here for a fair while its a beautiful area of countryside and the sun is out warming me up.
I moved down the mountain and made another stop at a very craggy area to one side of the road with the river to the other side down below in the valley, their is a picnic table and chairs made up of the local stone and i linger here for quite a while walking up and down the road looking up at the craggy rock faces for birds. Griffon Vultures are perched on the crags waiting for the air to warm up and provide them some lift to be able to ride a thermal instead of wasting energy flapping their huge wings to gain altitude. This area is well visited by birders and it is not long before a couple appear, one of who has visited this area before and gens me up on where to find the Western Rock Nuthatch and Olive Tree Warblers, more birders arrive in a transit van style bus from England and info is swapped. During one of my walks i came across an Ortolan Bunting and a perched Blue Rock Thrush high up on a crag.
I head down to the flat area in the valley and take a walk around the grassland dotted with small bushes and come across my first Black Headed Bunting a superbly colourful bird, a bright yellow plumage with a black head and bluish coloured bill. Further on another trip tick in the shape of a Turtle Dove and again a superbly colourful bird. Red Backed Shrikes and Woodchat Shrikes are flitting about and Corn Buntings are calling out. With Whitethroats calling from the bushes.
The Griffon Vultures have taken to the sky and are soaring above the valley flapping there huge wings now and then to gain altitude.
I head into Madzharovo town centre and visit the local supermarket getting cold meat, bread and tomatoes then re visit the picnic area for my picnic style breakfast/lunch.
Fed and watered i drove off to visit a flat grassland area on the Madzharovo to Harmani road that goes down to the river seeing a few overhead calling Ravens and a Syrian Woodpecker.
Armed with the latest info re the Western Rock Nuthatch i headed further up this road, the Nuthatch is nesting as it did last year at the half moon shaped rock some way up the mountain road which upon arrival has a big pull in off road.
Its been on the cards for a while now and just as i pulled up into the large off road parking area it started to hammer down, a car load of birders arrived at this point jumped out and started the search for the nest site which one of them knew off, another birder approached me sat in my car sheltering from the downpour and asked if i was a birder which i replied yes but not in this weather as the rain eased off the birders pointed out the nest site to me then left me to it.
Soon after a couple of lady birders put in a appearance set up there scopes and grilled the nest site, one of them saw the bird arrive but i could not see it and with a bit of further guidance from them i located the nest site as before i was looking to far to the left. I could just about make out a small bird moving around with my binoculars but as the distance from the ground to the nest site is large. I could not really make out a definite Id. One of the lady birders had a top of the range scope which she had fitted with a special adaptor to be able to hold a camera phone and she was videoing the bird, she invited me over to watch the video and i had superb views of the Western Rock Nuthatch at his nest site which he was busily repairing, the nest is a work of art made out of mud that he has collected nearby then stuck it on to the rock face and shaped it like a funnel. The lady birders leave me to it and i keep watch on the Nuthatch but really he is just a speck in the distance viewed through binoculars.
I make my way back to the picnic site area and linger here till dusk watching the Griffon Vultures circling there roost and Black Storks that also roost here using one of the caves. A Peregrine Falcon circles the crags looking for his supper and i get better views of a Blue Rock Thrush.
The picnic table area. Madzharovo.
The 10 minute journey back to Borislavtsi actually takes at least half an hour due to the poor state of the road which also has another hazard in the shape of the mountain cows who are roaming around looking for food. As i approach Borislavtsi i make a stop and listen for bird calls. According to the info i gained earlier in the day i should be able to hear an Olive Tree Warbler. In fact i can hear quite a few Olive Tree Warblers calling. As there is hardly any light by now i retire to my Hotel, eat the same meal as yesterday and have a few Kaminista's with the locals. The Bulgarian guy who can speak English tells me of his days adventure in the mountains collecting rocks. He lets me know that if you go off up the mountains you should take bread with you. Which is not for yourself its to feed any dogs you come across.
Day 3.
Up and about early no mist this morning but the sky is a grey colour and its not so warm i make the 2 minute journey out of the village to the Olive Tree Warbler site. At least 4 birds are calling but remain unseen bar brief flight views as they cross the road from one side to the other. A bird perches out in the open which turns out to be a Woodlark. After a 2 hour wait i eventually get a view of an Olive Tree Warbler which has flown over the road, gone into cover, then popped out on the top of a bush. The view was good enough for a trip tick although due to the light conditions it just looked like a largish dull Warbler.
I drove back to the hotel and picked up my passport as my next destination would be very close to the border with Turkey. Many White Storks are nesting in the village and if you have one nesting at your home it will bring you good luck according to local custom, on the outskirts of Borislavtsi is a small stream which had a Black Stork fishing for his breakfast. I took an equally poor road over the mountains heading for Silvengrad, my idea to visit the Sakar hills area from this location is not really going to be possible as it is very slow going getting in and out of the Madzharovo area.
At Silvengrad i take another small road towards the village called Shtit, by now the sun is out and it is fairly warm, along the way i make a stop at a open grassland area with small bushes dotted about which had Eastern Olivaceous Warblers singing and i got some good views of these birds, also a flock of Bee Eaters are in this area, another superbly colourful bird. I made a few more roadside stops and note many Woodchat/Red Backed Shrikes but no Masked Shrike, at one of the stops i see a Warbler gliding into a bush which can only be an Olive Tree Warbler. By now i am getting a bit low on fuel and also hungry so i return to Silvengrad for petrol and food.
Next i take another small road towards Levka and make a stop for breakfast/lunch. A Tree Sparrow flys in and perches on the fence to see what i am up to, fed and watered i carried on to Levka.
At Levka i visited the Lesser Kestrel reintroduction centre were i saw 5 Lesser Kestrels free flying around the centre, as time was getting on i thought i should make a move back to base, i did not fancy taking the road over the mountains i had travelled this morning, so i drove back to Silvengrad then used the main road for a quick journey up to Harmani then took the mountain road to Madzharovo.
At some point on the mountain road i came across a police check stop and they pulled me over. The police man who approached me spoke good English and informs me of who he is, then asks for my documents, i show him my passport, then he wants to see my driving licence but i do not have it with me, it is back in the hotel. He takes my passport and goes to consult 3 other police officers and i note they are recording my passport details on a laptop. Next they ask me to get out of the car and take a breathalyser test for alcohol, which is roughly the same as in the UK you blow into a machine which will measure any alcohol in your system. I take 2 blows both negative which makes them happy with me, but the lack of a driving licence is still a problem to them and they say i have to go back to Harmani police station with them, I argue there is no point in going back to Harmani police station as the driving licence is in Borislavsti and also how can i hire a car without having a licence. I say that in 2 days time i will be in Harmani and i could then drop into the police station with my driving licence, and they agree with this idea and let me continue my journey.
At some point after the this event i turn a corner and i flush a Honey Buzzard who was feeding by the side of the road, which has a big lay by and i do a quick u turn and pull up. Actually there was 2 Honey Buzzards down on the ground as i note one of them flying off into the forest, but one bird only flys off to the nearest tree and perches there. I get a stunning view of this Honey Buzzard a Male bird absolutely fantastic. He is that close i can see every detail wow.
By now its around about 6pm and i make my way into Madzharovo town, to eat something different for tea and make a stop at the big restaurant just as you arrive in Madzharovo centre. They have got a menu with photos of the meals that you can order with a description in English as to what are the ingredient's.
I chose a Chicken dish and chips, i got the chips but not the chicken dish instead ending up with a huge omelet filled with bits of pork and grains which was rather filling but tasty and for about £4.00 you cant grumble.
Back at the hotel i visit the bar for a beer but i am stuffed with food and only have one bottle then retire to me room. I think it is the only hotel room i have ever stayed in that has cuddly toys to keep you company if you are feeling a bit lonely.
Day 4.
I did a lot of driving around yesterday so today i have decided to keep it local so to speak. My first outing was to the Olive Tree Warbler area just outside the village Borislavtsi. Its a pea souper today thick fog all around. First bird seen is a smart Sombre Tit. Within around about half an hour wait i get a decent view of an Olive Tree Warbler singing out in the open atop a bush but due to the light conditions i cannot see any detail on this bird. A while later the sun starts to make an appearance through the gloom and an Olive Tree Warbler comes crashing out of a bush right in front of me and i get a superb view of this large Warbler and can easily make out the pale wing panel.
Fed and watered i drove off to the picnic table area, then lingered here for quite a while watching the Black Storks and Griffons circling in the thermals i also saw another the same ? Blue Rock Thrush and a Black Kite.
Then down to the grasslands in the valley for more views of Shrikes. Buntings and Woodpeckers, also a 52 seater coach was parked down here carrying a big gang of birdwatchers.
Next stop was to the Nuthatch site and i could just about see the bird moving around at his nest site through my binoculars, i made a short walk in the area down the road a bit and the 52 seater coach arrived and everyone grilled the Nuthatch, possibly this Nuthatch is the most watched in Europe. Its turned into a hot day and i linger in the car in the shade awaiting any action. I saw a bird fly up from the valley and perch in a dead bush not so far away and i lazily cast my bins at it, which were out of focus for this short distance but i could make out a Bunting type bird with a bright orange/red breast area and a darker shaped head. Yes its a Rock Bunting but my view is blurred i exit the car and search the area for the bird as it has flown not long after landing, i can hear it calling but i never located it again. As the view was brief and also blurred i did not tick this bird as i would like to see it well. The only other birds noted was a Peregrine Falcon and Crag Martins.
I thought it likely the picnic table area would be in the shade by now so drove off and revisited the area. As i was sat in the car this bird appeared over the crags not once did it flap it wings, it could glide from side to side, up and down it was so low that i could see it moving its head from left to right searching for prey. A Short Toed Snake Eagle what a fantastic bird. Its able to hang motionless in the sky by making minor wing adjustments, with its distinct way of holding its wings when gliding it reminded me of an angel in the sky. Only this angel is the angel of death if your a Lizard our a Snake.
A while later i got my best views of the Blue Rock Thrush to date, the light was just right to be able to see the Blue feathers on the bird, another smart looking bird if seen well.
As Today is a Sunday i decided to re visit the restaurant i used yesterday down in Madzharovo for a nice tea and made an order for. Kofte, chips and a Shopska salad, which went down a treat.
Day 5.
Today i am leaving Borislavtsi and where i will be this evening i have no idea at present, i have various options open at the moment. I say my goodbyes to the hotel owner and take the road over the mountains to Harmani to visit the police station to show them my driving licence. I made a few stops en route but did not see anything of note. At Harmani i got some breakfast then decided i would not visit the police station. If it is a major problem i am sure Europcar can sort it out when i return the car back to them in Sofia.
I pushed on to Topolovgrad, somewhere on the road between Hlyabovo and Topolovgrad i made a stop in a lay by surrounded by forest, at this stop a notice board informs me that i have arrived at the area i want to be in which is the home of the mighty Eastern Imperial Eagle, it also informs me that only 26 pairs of Eagles live in the area so finding one could be quite a challenge. As i cast my eyes over the massive forest a huge Eagle is low down with monstrous wings flapping away, potentially it has just taken off as it is only just above the tree line, i grill it in the binoculars a massive dark brown Eagle with a light yellow brown head in the home of the Eastern Imperial Eagle. I lose sight of it as some trees are blocking my view so quickly get in the car and drive in the direction the bird was going, make a stop at a better viewpoint but i have lost sight of this bird. But never mind, what a moment i have spent 5 Min's in this area and seen the mighty Eastern Imperial Eagle.
After this i had a bit of a raptor fest from this viewpoint. Common Buzzards, and Honey Buzzards are circling in the sky a Hobby is flying around and a Short Toed Snake Eagle glides over.
I made a rest stop in Topolovgrad, parked up in the main st, you can get pizzas, burgers, change money, visit a chemist, or buy any amount of fruit and veg, there are cafes dotted about with people enjoying the sunshine sat outside, it looked clean and orderly. In stark contrast to Borislavtsi which looked dirty, tired and run down, all over Bulgaria the young people do not want the peasant existence they think they have seen a better life for them in the City's or even abroad. In all the small villages you usually only see older people the young have left and when the old pass away there houses fall into disrepair, in time some of these villages will be empty of people.
As i enjoy my slice of pizza for breakfast a Black Kite sails over the city. After breakfast i made a circular tour of the area on the small back roads at one stop in agricultural /steppe like habitat i saw a pale form Long Legged Buzzard another superbly colourful bird if seen well.
Then i headed off towards Burgas and spotted a small Eagle sat on the ground in grassland/woodland area, i could not stop at this point but he looked like a Lesser Spotted Eagle to me. Nearer Burgas i pulled up to admire a Montagu's Harrier flying over the fields.
I pulled over in Burgas and set up maps to get me to my next destination the Pomorie Salt pans. As i made the turn off the main highway to the salt pans i see the way is blocked by a gate. I have no idea if this gate is closed because it is early evening or it is never open. So i park up and leave room for another vehicle to enter the site if needed. Early evening is not really the best time to visit the salt pans in my opinion, the sun is setting behind most of the pans which held the most Waders, which turned them into silhouettes also a scope would be useful here.
I did good views of Black Winged Stilts, a lone Wood Sandpiper over 50 Avocets and a party of Ruff who favoured a salt pan that i could look at with the sun behind me 6 Female birds and one very smart Male bird coming into breeding plumage. I also had good flight views of Little Terns.
As i walk back to the car i make the decision to press on and drive up to Kavarna from memory around about a 4 hour drive. That would give me all day tomorrow to visit Durunkulak for the Paddyfield Warbler. Who had not arrived on my previous visit last April.
Around about 11pm i arrived in Kavarna, re visited the hotel i stayed in last time and asked for a room, which i got last year i was charged 40 Levs a night, this time it was 35 Levs. Took a hot shower then bed.
Day 6.
Up early and on the road to Durankuluk, its quite misty and on the cool side with a lead grey sky. On the drive to the lake i see the only Roller of the trip perched on the telephone wires. At Camping Kokmok i pull into the large car park and straight away see 3 Cuckoos and Spotted Flycatchers. As i make my way down the track along the reed beds. Reed Warblers are calling. Great Reed Warblers are calling and so are many unseen Frogs its noisy. I reach an area with 2 small dead trees in the reed bed a small bird is singing from one of the dead trees, its a dainty looking bird with a small bill and straight away i note it does not look anything like a Reed Warbler, its posture is totally different it is singing but i can hardly hear the song as it is weak and with all the din going on i am only able to hear part of the song. The bird stays loyal to this area and pops up regularly from the reed bed to sing in the dead tree and over the space of a couple of hours i got to compare him with a nearby singing Reed Warbler visually. Also i start to pick up more of his weak song which sounds exactly the same as the song on my phone that i downloaded from Xeno Canto. Yep its a Paddyfield Warbler.
I did a lot of driving around yesterday so today i have decided to keep it local so to speak. My first outing was to the Olive Tree Warbler area just outside the village Borislavtsi. Its a pea souper today thick fog all around. First bird seen is a smart Sombre Tit. Within around about half an hour wait i get a decent view of an Olive Tree Warbler singing out in the open atop a bush but due to the light conditions i cannot see any detail on this bird. A while later the sun starts to make an appearance through the gloom and an Olive Tree Warbler comes crashing out of a bush right in front of me and i get a superb view of this large Warbler and can easily make out the pale wing panel.
The Olive Tree Warbler site in the gloom.
Next stop is up the mountain to be greeted to this, warm sunshine and no gloom.
Just as i park up a fairly large looking bird catches my attention in one of the many bushes, as he flys to another bush i can see a flash of white to the tail area.
As he goes from bush to bush i keep track of him he is a fairly large warbler with what looks like a black mask around his face with a white chin. An Eastern Orphean Warbler and for me a top spot. Next new bird seen is a Lesser Grey Shrike sat atop a bush warming himself no doubt in the lovely sunshine.
I move on to a another roadside stop which is a bit more open terrain and get good views this time of 2 Eastern Subalpine Warblers. Also a pair of Honey Buzzards are up in the sky, i drive off to Madzharovo and get some cold meat, tomatoes, bread and return to this spot to have my breakfast.
Fed and watered i drove off to the picnic table area, then lingered here for quite a while watching the Black Storks and Griffons circling in the thermals i also saw another the same ? Blue Rock Thrush and a Black Kite.
Then down to the grasslands in the valley for more views of Shrikes. Buntings and Woodpeckers, also a 52 seater coach was parked down here carrying a big gang of birdwatchers.
Next stop was to the Nuthatch site and i could just about see the bird moving around at his nest site through my binoculars, i made a short walk in the area down the road a bit and the 52 seater coach arrived and everyone grilled the Nuthatch, possibly this Nuthatch is the most watched in Europe. Its turned into a hot day and i linger in the car in the shade awaiting any action. I saw a bird fly up from the valley and perch in a dead bush not so far away and i lazily cast my bins at it, which were out of focus for this short distance but i could make out a Bunting type bird with a bright orange/red breast area and a darker shaped head. Yes its a Rock Bunting but my view is blurred i exit the car and search the area for the bird as it has flown not long after landing, i can hear it calling but i never located it again. As the view was brief and also blurred i did not tick this bird as i would like to see it well. The only other birds noted was a Peregrine Falcon and Crag Martins.
I thought it likely the picnic table area would be in the shade by now so drove off and revisited the area. As i was sat in the car this bird appeared over the crags not once did it flap it wings, it could glide from side to side, up and down it was so low that i could see it moving its head from left to right searching for prey. A Short Toed Snake Eagle what a fantastic bird. Its able to hang motionless in the sky by making minor wing adjustments, with its distinct way of holding its wings when gliding it reminded me of an angel in the sky. Only this angel is the angel of death if your a Lizard our a Snake.
A while later i got my best views of the Blue Rock Thrush to date, the light was just right to be able to see the Blue feathers on the bird, another smart looking bird if seen well.
As Today is a Sunday i decided to re visit the restaurant i used yesterday down in Madzharovo for a nice tea and made an order for. Kofte, chips and a Shopska salad, which went down a treat.
Day 5.
Today i am leaving Borislavtsi and where i will be this evening i have no idea at present, i have various options open at the moment. I say my goodbyes to the hotel owner and take the road over the mountains to Harmani to visit the police station to show them my driving licence. I made a few stops en route but did not see anything of note. At Harmani i got some breakfast then decided i would not visit the police station. If it is a major problem i am sure Europcar can sort it out when i return the car back to them in Sofia.
I pushed on to Topolovgrad, somewhere on the road between Hlyabovo and Topolovgrad i made a stop in a lay by surrounded by forest, at this stop a notice board informs me that i have arrived at the area i want to be in which is the home of the mighty Eastern Imperial Eagle, it also informs me that only 26 pairs of Eagles live in the area so finding one could be quite a challenge. As i cast my eyes over the massive forest a huge Eagle is low down with monstrous wings flapping away, potentially it has just taken off as it is only just above the tree line, i grill it in the binoculars a massive dark brown Eagle with a light yellow brown head in the home of the Eastern Imperial Eagle. I lose sight of it as some trees are blocking my view so quickly get in the car and drive in the direction the bird was going, make a stop at a better viewpoint but i have lost sight of this bird. But never mind, what a moment i have spent 5 Min's in this area and seen the mighty Eastern Imperial Eagle.
After this i had a bit of a raptor fest from this viewpoint. Common Buzzards, and Honey Buzzards are circling in the sky a Hobby is flying around and a Short Toed Snake Eagle glides over.
I made a rest stop in Topolovgrad, parked up in the main st, you can get pizzas, burgers, change money, visit a chemist, or buy any amount of fruit and veg, there are cafes dotted about with people enjoying the sunshine sat outside, it looked clean and orderly. In stark contrast to Borislavtsi which looked dirty, tired and run down, all over Bulgaria the young people do not want the peasant existence they think they have seen a better life for them in the City's or even abroad. In all the small villages you usually only see older people the young have left and when the old pass away there houses fall into disrepair, in time some of these villages will be empty of people.
As i enjoy my slice of pizza for breakfast a Black Kite sails over the city. After breakfast i made a circular tour of the area on the small back roads at one stop in agricultural /steppe like habitat i saw a pale form Long Legged Buzzard another superbly colourful bird if seen well.
Then i headed off towards Burgas and spotted a small Eagle sat on the ground in grassland/woodland area, i could not stop at this point but he looked like a Lesser Spotted Eagle to me. Nearer Burgas i pulled up to admire a Montagu's Harrier flying over the fields.
I pulled over in Burgas and set up maps to get me to my next destination the Pomorie Salt pans. As i made the turn off the main highway to the salt pans i see the way is blocked by a gate. I have no idea if this gate is closed because it is early evening or it is never open. So i park up and leave room for another vehicle to enter the site if needed. Early evening is not really the best time to visit the salt pans in my opinion, the sun is setting behind most of the pans which held the most Waders, which turned them into silhouettes also a scope would be useful here.
I did good views of Black Winged Stilts, a lone Wood Sandpiper over 50 Avocets and a party of Ruff who favoured a salt pan that i could look at with the sun behind me 6 Female birds and one very smart Male bird coming into breeding plumage. I also had good flight views of Little Terns.
As i walk back to the car i make the decision to press on and drive up to Kavarna from memory around about a 4 hour drive. That would give me all day tomorrow to visit Durunkulak for the Paddyfield Warbler. Who had not arrived on my previous visit last April.
Around about 11pm i arrived in Kavarna, re visited the hotel i stayed in last time and asked for a room, which i got last year i was charged 40 Levs a night, this time it was 35 Levs. Took a hot shower then bed.
Day 6.
Up early and on the road to Durankuluk, its quite misty and on the cool side with a lead grey sky. On the drive to the lake i see the only Roller of the trip perched on the telephone wires. At Camping Kokmok i pull into the large car park and straight away see 3 Cuckoos and Spotted Flycatchers. As i make my way down the track along the reed beds. Reed Warblers are calling. Great Reed Warblers are calling and so are many unseen Frogs its noisy. I reach an area with 2 small dead trees in the reed bed a small bird is singing from one of the dead trees, its a dainty looking bird with a small bill and straight away i note it does not look anything like a Reed Warbler, its posture is totally different it is singing but i can hardly hear the song as it is weak and with all the din going on i am only able to hear part of the song. The bird stays loyal to this area and pops up regularly from the reed bed to sing in the dead tree and over the space of a couple of hours i got to compare him with a nearby singing Reed Warbler visually. Also i start to pick up more of his weak song which sounds exactly the same as the song on my phone that i downloaded from Xeno Canto. Yep its a Paddyfield Warbler.
The Paddyfield Warbler site at Durankulak.
Other birds noted in this area where Squacco and Purple Herons and an unseen Savis Warbler calling from the reed bed. By now it had started to rain quite heavily so i cancelled the idea of having a walk around and drove off to the village for a coffee and chocolate breakfast at the supermarket area.
Next i drove down to Shabla and took the old road that leads back to Kavarna. I made a stop at a place i visited a few times last year which has a good pull in with bushes and a few pines trees to either side of a track leading down to the sea. Its not quite the Migrant hot spot it was last April and the only birds seen were Spotted Flycatchers a single Female Red Breasted Flycatcher and a few unseen Nightingales. As i walked back to the car out of the corner of my eye i spotted movement in the sky low down over the bushes and caught the tail end of a very large brown owl. Its got to be an Eagle Owl and i raced back down the track for another view, as i got into the open 2 Buzzards are mobbing something hidden down in the rocks on the beach. I got down to the rocks as quick as i could hoping to be able to flush the Owl but i could not find it.
Onwards to Kaliakra which i expected to be rammed with tourists but it was fairly quite, no tour buses in the car park and most visitors seemed to be locals, bar 4 Polish Birders and 1 lady who revealed herself to be a German who had a total melt down in the car park and started effing and jeffing at one of her kids, she was still giving it out when she drove off.
I got a couple of West Pal ticks at the Cape. Alpine Swifts and Shag. Also a smart Yellow Legged Gull is stood far below on a rock. The Pied Wheatears were fearless as ever totally unconcerned by the hordes of visitors to the Cape and just got on doing whatever it is Pied Wheatear's do i even managed to get a few shots of one on my camera phone.
Its the black and white speck on the ground.
Flight shot of the Pied Wheatear.
Down at the Bolata Gorge i find a Hobby hunting along the cliffs, then a Great Reed Warbler gets my attention and is singing in the same area of reed bed that i saw my first ever Great Reed Warbler last year. I grill the cliffs and caves for any sign of the Eagle Owl and come up with the idea to return later at dusk, maybe i could get a brief flight view as he leaves his liar.
I carry on walking down the small road to the end of the Gorge seeing a glimpse of a Golden Oriole, many Bee Eaters and another Hobby or the same one perched high up in a dead tree. At the end of the Gorge i about turn and mull over what time i reckon i should return this evening. When i see it. A huge Owl sat out in the open on the far cliff face. Its been a fantastic trip and this is just a fantastic ending to the trip. An Eagle Owl sat out in the open, no brief flight view, no half obscured view, no scope needed. I sat down and spent 2 hours with the Eagle Owl who occasionally turned his head but apart that he never moved.
The Eagle Owl at Bolata Gorge.
Back at the car a van load of UK Toggers are photographing the Great Reed Warbler, l let them know of the Eagle Owl then head off back to Kavarna and get the car cleaned up at a car wash place the underside of it is caked in mud from the bad roads around Madzharovo, and the inside is covered in bits of ash and sandwiches.
At the hotel i get a Kaminista or 2 take a shower then dine in the restaurant a lovely meal.
Day 7.
The long drive back to Sofia day. I set off early and arrived some 8 hours later. I think i made a few wrong turns around Varna which added another hour to the journey also at some points going was slow due to the heavy rain. I also stopped at various times to eat or rest. I used Booking.com in Kavarna and have booked into the same hotel i used last year. Hotel Gorna Baya. Situated not far off the ring road, the airport is easy to get to from here and the road leading up Mt Vitosha to the Golden Bridge is also not far away. Upon arrival in Sofia i was going to go up Mt Vitosha but the rain was hammering down and the mountain was covered in low cloud.
I checked in and left my bag in my 5th floor room. Visited a restaurant and had a meal. Got some Kaminista's then used the Wifi at the hotel to catch up with anything i had missed during this last week. And wow the Jeremy Kyle show has been taken off air, what am i going to do in the mornings now?
The Hotel Gorna Baya.
The Sofia Skyline from my hotel room.
Conclusions.
My second visit to Bulgaria and i am sure their will be a third at some point. Its a great country for birdwatching, easy to get around, easy to find accommodation and food when you need it. Great scenery to admire and lots of adventures to go on.
