After reading quite a few bird trip reports and blog posts about the birding in Bulgaria the beautiful scenery to admire, quite roads to drive on, nice food to eat and relaxed natives. I booked up with Easyjet and flew out of Manchester one early Saturday morning heading for Sofia International Airport Terminal 1 which gave me the impression i would soon be landing at a huge airport with miles of corridors to negotiate and all signs written in Cyrillic but i was pleasantly surprised its actually very small and i easily found my way to the Europacar hire car desk to pick up my vehicle. After filling in the paperwork i am giving directions as to were to find the Kia Picanto that i have hired for the week.
As i make the short walk to where the hire car is parked i have to remove my coat, its going to be a hot day with hardly a cloud in the clear blue sky. I note Mt Vitosha towering over the city covered in trees expect for the very top which still has snow on it. At the hire car i take a few shots of the vehicle in case of any disagreements when i return it, chuck my bag in, get the bins out and sit them on the passenger seat just in case i see something and fire up Goggle maps to get my out the nightmare that will be Sofia.
Within 10 Min's of driving i have made my way to Sofia's outer ring road and find the turn off to Varna that will take me to the central Balkan mountain range where i have pre booked a nights accommodation in a place called Troyan. As i drive on and as the week went on i found out that outside of the 4 larger city's in Bulgaria the rest of the country is mostly just that unspoilt countryside or farmland and small villages and towns. I am driving down one of the major roads to Varna which is 440 Kms away, the traffic is very light, the cars that do appear soon overtake me. Bulgarians drive very fast to my mind to fast for the road conditions as you can suddenly find yourself coming up to a car shaking bone crunching pothole.
I pull into a service area which seem frequent on the road and get myself a toasted sandwich then drive on to the next slip road pull off and within a minute i am in deserted countryside where i eat my sandwich and listen to a unseen Cuckoo calling. I get out and stretch my legs and take a short walk. Its T shirt weather as it was all week fantastic. As the afternoon goes on i get nearer my destination stopping now and then looking for new birds or just to admire the views it is a stunning countryside.
Day 2. Somewhere? to Durankulak.
Up early and on the road as i still have a fair way to go yet. I manage to negotiate Varna very easily out on the other side of the city i catch my first views of the Black sea. The surrounding countryside has a very Mediterranean feel to it. I stop in a small village and get some more sandwich's and water then pull over into a lay by where the road is surrounded by forest and have a pit stop an outstandingly beautiful place as indeed is most of Bulgaria. As i drive on the countryside becomes a lot flatter and makes way to fields and farmland vast fields that stretch to the horizon. I see my first new bird of the trip a Hooded Crow.
Lake Durunkuluk
I linger at the far end of the Gorge for quiet a while then make my way back to the car where eventually a calling Great Reed Warbler is seen really well, i drive off and park up at the top of the Gorge and immediately see a black and white flycatcher i get nearer and this one turns out to be a Male Collared Flycatcher. As i make my way back to the road to Kavarna i note a side road that i reckon is a dead end but it does have bushes either side of the road so i drive down it and get good views of a perched Woodlark in one of the bushes a bit further on another black and white flycatcher catches my eye and oh yes its a Male Semi Collared Flycatcher, all 4 Flycatchers seen in one afternoon fantastic and to cap it off at the end of the track there are many Calandra Larks.
At Kavarna i find a hotel for 40 Levs a night which is fine, eat a piece of cold pizza for tea then shower and bed.
Day 3. Kavarna Area.
An early start and a short drive to Kaliakra to see if i can find a Pied Wheatear, the search does not last long, there is a Male Pied Wheatear sitting on top of the ruins at the end of the car park. Next i take the short drive down to the Bolata Gorge park up at the beach area then walk down the gorge, at the reed bed area i can hear a Savis Warbler and i linger here for a while, eventually i am rewarded with fantastic views of a Savis Warbler making its trademark surrrrrrrrr call. 4 Purple Herons fly in of the sea and land in the reed beds which are alive with the calls of thousands of frogs, i walk on for a bit till i reach some bushes covered in Blackcaps, Willow Warblers, Lesser Whitethroats, Pied, Collared and Semi Collared Flycatchers with Thrush Nightingales calling out there explosive song from deep cover a Cuckoo calls and a Hobby comes in of the sea and perches in the tall trees near by.
Bolata Gorge
I leave the Gorge and head back to Kavarna for breakfast after passing through the village named Balgarevo i made an emergency stop to watch a flock of over 40 Red Footed Falcons both Male and Female new in of the sea resting and catching insects on the Steppe grasslands what a fantastic sight.
The Steppe Grasslands at Kaliakra.
At Kavarna i get some pizza for breakfast, then drive back to Balgarevo turn left and take the old road running along the coast to Durunkuluk. As i make my way slowly down the road due to the many potholes a Roller flys up from a field and perches in a tree, in flight he is a very colourful bird against the backdrop of a pl owed field but once in the tree he melts away into the foliage to the naked eye without knowing the bird is in the tree and binoculars to see him he would be overlooked. I park up in a lay by at some grassland area, many Calandra Larks, Corn Buntings and Whinchats are in this area as indeed they are all over the Steppe. As i walk back to the car a Tortoise comes speeding by.
I drive on and park up again at a row of bushes leading down to the sea each side of a track, over the other side of the road a farmer is plowing a field which has attracted another smaller flock of Red Footed Falcons and a few Gull Billed Terns.
In the bushes Redstarts are fly catching along with Willow Warblers and a lone Red Breasted Flycatcher swoops down onto the track and i get superb views. Nightingales are constantly calling and i catch one out in the open singing from an exposed perch. I can see distantly some Terns out on the sea so i make my way to the rocky shoreline, once on the rocks 2 Isabelline Wheatears appear out of nowhere, Black Necked Grebes coming into summer plumage's are fishing just offshore and a flock of over 50 Yelkouan Shearwaters pass close inshore and i get good views also a flock of around about 30 Glossy Ibis fly past in V formation. Back at the bushes i note a few Pied and Collared Flycatchers.
I drive off through Shabla and head for Shablenska Tuzla, once there i get cracking views of another Nightingale singing out in the open from the comfort of the car. At the lake area a few Great White Egrets fly off at my presence but apart from the Egrets there not much else to see. A Raptor appears in the sky either a Long Legged Buzzard or Steppe Buzzard both have a confusingly similarity to each other plumage wise and the view was brief,
Shablenska Tuzla.
I head back on the coastal road to the Bolata Gorge, instead of parking at the beach i drive right down the gorge to the far end and linger here for a while a ring tail harrier is flying around but i could not id it either. I hear a drumming in some tress and make my way over to them and see a Syrian Woodpecker. By now it is early evening and i am feeling hungry so i drive up to Balgarevo park up in the main square and visit a restaurant for a decent meal, they have got a menu in English and i chose the bears paw with chips.
A Bears paw
Day 4 Kavarna Area. Cuckoo Madness.
Up early and i take the short drive to Kaliakra, the Steppe area which held the flock of Red Footed Falcons is quiet. Bar a lone White Stork feeding in the grasses by the road, at the Bolata Gorge its also very quiet all the migrants have moved on except a Garden Warbler, i linger here for a while as it is a nice place to be and catch sight of a Hawfinch at the top of a tree. A bird flys off from the top of another tree a flash of yellow is it a Golden Oriole? Then i hear a bird call making a sound that would not be out of place in the bush of the Gambia a fluting whistle fioooh. Then i see them 3 Male Golden Orioles they must have just arrived in the Gorge what a beautiful bird. The calling Golden Orioles seem to set of a Cuckoo who is calling constantly and i managed to track him down, he is perched in a tree not far away and he allows me a close approach another fantastic trip tick.
The far end of Bolata Gorge
I drive out of the Gorge up the steep road till i get to the top were i see a perched raptor on top of a bush as i get out of the car he flys off, i hear another Cuckoo calling just behind a bush which i walk round and there he is metres away my 2nd Cuckoo of the day. Its looks like there was a big influx of Whinchats overnight as 100s are perched on top of every bush. I head back to Kavarna for a pizza breakfast then as yesterday take the coastal road to Durunkuluk parking up here and there. Just before Shablenska Tuzla i came across the sign below, which i reckon is trying to tell folk not to hunt the Geese that overwinter in the area, at least one person is not happy with that idea.
At Durunkuluk i park up at a restaurant overlooking the lake and take a short walk that leads to an island as i cross the farmed grassland a dog appears coming from the opposite direction, when he sees me he turns around and runs off at speed, there is quite a few stray dogs in Bulgaria all nervous and subservient around humans begging for food trying to survive, i hate to think what could have happened to the dog i saw coming towards me in the grass, that just the sight of a human being made him turn tail and run way.
As i was crossing over the reed beds at Durunkuluk onto the island another Cuckoo flys in and perches on the handrail of the boardwalk over the reeds meters away, as i lower my bins to rest my arms for a moment another Cuckoo flys by. On the island i flush a rufous Female Cuckoo from a bush.
Reed beds to the Island at Lake Durunkuluk
At Durunkuluk i stop for a kebab and give some to the stray dog hovering around begging for food, then onwards for a brief visit to Camping Kocmoc, then make my way via the coastal road back to Balgarevo. On the way back i take a new road towards Rusalka onto Steppe grasslands terrain which has masses of Calandra Larks, here i spot a raptor as he swoops down to the ground very near the road and i make an emergency stop. As i am trying to id this bird a larger raptor flys of a bush to the ground then flys up with a snake in its talons then alights back on the ground near the car a big bird with light brown plumage and trousers its a Long Legged Buzzard a very power full looking raptor and makes the nearby Steppe Buzzard look tiny a fitting end to a great days birdwatching.
Back at Kavarna i tidy myself up and have a shave my first of the trip and get rid of the grizzly bear look, then visit a nearby restaurant and enjoy a lovely chicken meal with beers for about £5.00.
Day 5. Kavarna to Sozopol.
I have a little lie in this morning as mostly today is about driving to Sozopol, but first i make my last visit to the Bolata Gorge area and Kaliakra. 2 more Cuckoos seen and a small flock of Yelkouan Shearwaters pass by over the sea, but no new birds around. So i fire up the Kia and start the journey to Varna.
Varna is a fairly large port city but i easily negotiate the city and onwards to Burgas the scenery is mostly mountainous forest and farmland simply stunning. I take a rest stop and have a short walk in the forest getting good views of 2 Syrian Woodpeckers and a Hawfinch. Later on i make a pit spot at a restaurant in a village and meet a fellow Brit who has a property nearby and for the past 12 years he has been living here, a lucky bloke, i have a few beers and a lovely meal.
I drive on and the landscape levels of as i drive through sunny beach which is deserted until the charter flights resume in a few weeks time carrying the package holiday crew. As i approach Burgas i think about pulling over and putting Goggle maps on to aid me through the city, but there is plenty of road signs and soon i am on the main road to Sozopol. The road sign informs me Sozopol 34km. Istanbul 346km this is the main highway between the Middle East and Western Europe i pass Lake Burgas and think about pulling over but as by now it is early evening i carry on to my destination to find accommodation. There is not many hotels open at Sozopol but eventually i find one with a sea view and very well furnished 5 floors up for £25.00 a night as i do not need any tea i go and get myself 8 beers and have a booze up at the hotel.
Sea view from the hotel at Sozopol.
Day 6 Poda.
No early start needed today and i do not set the alarm, around about 8am i am in the car eating my breakfast that i got from a lovely bakery selling a light bread mixed with feta cheese concoction observing the Sozopol residents going about there business. I put Goggle maps on to get to Poda and fire up the Kia, its another fantastic morning weather wise brilliant sunshine as it has been all week, a short 20 minute journey See's me pulling into the car park at Poda, i make my way down to the reserve and meet the Bulgarian reserve warden who informs what birds are about today. The reserve is only small about 1 square km with a single track through the reserve which takes you to the sea then you return the same way. Many Common Terns and Cormorants are nesting here, the cormorants using the power supply towers to nest on.
As i walk on i reach a hide and get great views of Pygmy Cormorants drying there wings atop branches that are stuck up out of the water, a little further i see a Male Red Backed Shrike one of the birds i really wanted to see on this trip. 3 White Winged Terns are flying over the marsh and a Cuckoo flys by. In the reed bed next to the path is a Moustached Warbler flicking his tail up and down making his buzzing call. 2 British birders appear from the opposite direction and we chat for a while, whilst a Collared Pratincole catches unseen insects in the sky. Later on i see a few Ferruginous Duck. As i walk back i note this in the photo below hundreds of caterpillars, food for hungry chicks.
Back at the reserve centre i take a cold drink and chat with the Bulgarian warden for a while who is very knowledgeable on all the fauna in the area and has plans for many things but no money source other than donations, i happily donate £10.00 to his cause to help him realise his plans. We go up to the observation area on the roof and get good views of a European Spoonbill as well as a Black Crowned Night Heron in flight who then settles down in nearby tree. As i walk back to the car i see a washed out warbler in a small tree an Olivaceous Warbler.
Poda from the reserve headquarters.
I drive on into Burgas and stop at a fast food set up and get a beer and hamburger, then do a u turn back to lake Burgas a massive lake, onwards to Mandra lake were i park up in a lay by to see 30 odd Great White Pelicans all stood on a raft showing a faint pink tinge to there long neck area. I turn of the main highway and have a short drive around Mandra lake, then back to Sozopol were i visit a supermarket and get a takeaway tea and beers and have a picnic/booze up in my hotel room whilst Pallid Swifts fly by.
Mandra Lake
Day 7 To Sofia.
Up early today ready to make the long drive back to Sofia, i get my act together as the sun rises over the Black Sea viewed from my hotel room.
I drive past the suburbs of Burgas and find my way onto the motorway to Sofia apart from Turkish, Bulgarian, German heavy lorries and a few cars the road is very quiet, unlike the motorways in UK. At some point during this journey i came across a huge flock of 300 plus White Storks feeding and resting in a grassland area. After a while i pull into a service stop refuel and have a lovely toasted sandwich. As i approach Sofia i pull into a service area and set Goggle maps to direct me to Golden Bridges which is somewhere on Mt Vitosha. I climb and i climb up a winding road to the Golden bridge, now i am in heavy pine forest both sides of the small road, a deer steps onto the road then walks across into the forest, i pull up into a lay by as i have heard the machine gun like sound of the Nutcracker, but i can not see him in the dense forest. At the top is a hotel/restaurant i park up and take a walk into the forest.
Its nearly impossible to id birds in this terrain, thick forest, if you are lucky you may get fleeting views of some bird. Back at the car i decide to head down to Sofia and find a hotel, i do not drive far till i notice another road going up which i did not see on the way up and turn onto it and climb even higher up the mountain, eventually i reach a large wooden cabin and a noticeboard informing me that the top section of Mt Vitosha is a peak bog area. I take a walk through the forest and find myself in open land looking at the peak of Mt Vitosha.
I walk for a while till i reach the peat area.
I turn around to make my way back to the car, but i have lost the trial, i do not fancy spending the night up here and i am annoyed at myself for not taking care coming up, but eventually i find the right trial back to the car. As i enter the woodland i hear the machine gull call of a Nutcracker very near me and get great views of the bird. As i walk on i am just about to step into a clearing in the forest, but before i do i notice another Nutcracker sat out on top of a tree in the open fantastic.
Heading back into the snow covered forest.
Back at the car i make my way down Mt Vitosha and pull over into a lay by and see a Willow Tit foraging in the trees. At the base of Mt Vitosha i fire up the Samsung Galaxy S5 and find a hotel to stay in for the night and with the help of Goggle maps i drive over to it. The hotel is about a 20 minute drive away through Sofia's rush hour traffic and it is set in a leafy area of the city with many booze shops, kebab shops and a few restaurant's around it. Many of the local men are gearing up for a boozy night and are drinking large bottles of lager whilst sat around in the park or on benches. I visit a restaurant very close to the hotel and they have all the food laid out in trays, so all i have to do is point out what it is i want. Which was Schnitzel and chips with a side plate of tomatoes, whilst eating this meal i got to admire the best looking women i saw in Bulgaria who is outside waiting for a bus, what a stunner. I take a walk around the area but cant find anything that resembles a bar so i get 6 beers and drink them in the hotel as the sun sets on Sofia's skyline.
Day 8 Home Time.
I go and visit the restaurant that i used last night and have a traditional Bulgarian breakfast of a bowl of soup, also in the restaurant is a Bulgarian guy who speaks good English and we chat for a while, he is going to work soon as a chef. He tells me he will be working a 14 hour shift he already looks drunk to my eyes and he is drinking a bottle of cider as we chat. Back at the hotel i watch the acrobatic performance of a Red Squirrel as he tightropes along the telephone cables.
I check out then fire up the Kia, refuel it and take it to a car wash to have a valet as it is pretty messy inside and out, when i picked it up it was spotless, so i am going to return it spotless. I do not think it is part of my hire car agreement to do this, but i reckon it paid of as at the airport, the hire car desk was empty and all i could do was drop of the keys and log book and hope for the best regarding my 500 Euro deposit. But as i waited to board the plane my phone rang and it was the Europcar agent who told me, he was very happy with the condition of the car and would realise my 500 Euro deposit immediately. A tenner well spent.
The Kia getting a through going over.
Conclusions.
Bulgaria is a fantastic country to visit. The birding is great, the countryside is amazing, the food is good, roads are quiet and driving is stress free. Would i go again? I would go tomorrow. Below is a great song that i first heard in Kavarna and then many times on the car radio during the trip.
